Powerhouse Racing
PHR 3.0" Hot Side Intercooler Pipe for SC300 for PHR Long Runner - Equal Length, QR Series, S1 and V1 Manifolds
FitmentDetails are importantThis intercooler piping will fit nearly all PHR Manifolds:
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Create A New Account This intercooler piping will fit nearly all PHR Manifolds: It works with both 2JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GE versions of the above manifolds. It will NOT work with PHR Street Torque manifolds which have a different turbo locations. This piping only works with Sportsman Cover aka GT42 (V-band compressor outlet) turbos.Fitment
Details are important
S1 and V1,
S23 and S23QR,
S45 and S45QR,
V23 and V23QR,
V45 and V45QR.
Depending on what turbo you go with, we recommend different intercooler piping:
If you are running a Sportsman Cover (GT42) turbo with a v-band outlet, you are in the right spot. This is the intercooler piping we recommend.
When considering S-cover turbos (2.5" Outlet), it would make more sense to go with our 2.5" hot side intercooler piping, found in this link.
When considering H-cover turbos (3.0" Outlet), it would make more sense to go with our 3.0" hot side intercooler piping, found in this link.
Also take a look at the video from Precision Turbo below describing the difference in compressor covers.
Our Hot Side (Drop-Down) Intercooler pipes are made specifically to fit the needs of the do-it-yourself enthusiast switching to single turbo setup. This kit is customizable to fit a variety of intercooler and manifold combinations.
Made of top-quality lightweight aluminum CNC mandrel bends. Mandrel bends allow for optimal flow. The end of each section is bead rolled to keep couplers from slipping off.
The drop-down design of these pipes route underneath the frame rail, and around to the intercooler. This will require removal or trimming of the inner fender well plastics panels and bracket. These plastic panels and brackets block debris from the tires from entering the engine bay, and also hold up the lower plastic panels.
We've found that removal doesn't make much of a difference for debris or dirt entering, but if you are in an exceptionally dusty or dirty area (like living on a dirt road), we'd recommend trimming the panels to fit around the piping rather than removing them. If you do choose to remove them, you will need to add some zip ties or other holding method to the lower panels as well to keep them secure.
When considering worm gear clamps vs T-bolt clamps for the solution to clamping the couplers to the aluminum intercooler tubing, we've found that worm gear clamps are the best for this application. T-bolt clamps can create too much force, and end up collapsing the tubing, making for a looser connection over time.
They also are not optimal for the space provided behind the bead roll due to the extra wide band, and often clamp over the bead roll instead of behind it on the tubing. This can create poor clamping.
In our experience, worm gear clamps offer the superior clamping solution in this application, and we use only the highest quality stainless worm gear clamps available.
For high boost applications when you might even more holding capability, boost braces can be added across the coupler to create a mechanical link, that virtually ensures the pipes cannot separate the coupler cannot pop off.
If you want to add boost braces, you will need to have the bolt bosses welded to the tubing, turbo, and/or intercooler. PHR can provide this service, but you will need to contact us to do so.
You will need one boost kit for each connection you want to make. 3 Kits would cover each connection on this kit.
Grant discusses PTE Compressor Covers